We went down to Villa Rica, a little fishing village on the gulf. I was there ten years ago when I was retracing the Route of the Conquistadors. It's an amazing historic spot that is totally, amazingly neglected.

Cortes camped on the beach at what is now the city of Veracruz, and he officially established a town, but it was a legal fiction designed to justify a new course for his expedition. They soon moved up the coast to Villa Rica (La Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz), near the Totanac ceremonial city of Quiahuitzlan. Here Cortes began to get a sense of the power struggles and political realities of Mexico, and of the treasure that waited for him inland. Here he decided to conquer Mexico; here he maneuvered the local people to align with him in rebellion against the Aztecs. Here, in this harbor, Cortes burnt his ships so that there could be no turning back.

Also here, Cortes himself, working with his men, carried rocks to build a fort, the first European structure on the North American mainland north of Panama. I was here 10 years ago and I found it, somewhat overgrown, with an old neglected sign. I would not have been able to find it myself this time; it is too overgrown. Apparently, archaeologists worked here a few years before my last visit; since then, no one, and the tropical vines and grasses have reclaimed it. Compare the picture at http://thedagger.com/archive/conquest/villarica.html with the ones on this page. The photos don't really show how much more overgrown it is now. Take my word for it. This spot, one of the most important in world history, is totally neglected!

When I was here before, I met a man named Rudolfo who spent the afternoon with us and took us up to the ruins. Even though I only knew his first name and that he was a musician (he had played The Beattles' "Blackbird singing..." on a leaf!), we found him easily, and spent another good afternoon. He played it again:

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